DragSlots Administrator
- Welcome to the new Dragboard on DragSlots.com
|65.31.41.xxx
|2008-10-30 11:30:03
Welcome to the new dragboard!!! Give it a try and have fun. Oh, and tell your friends that it is up.
Victor
|131.191.53.xxx
|2008-10-30 20:06:04
DP
|71.35.168.xxx
|2008-11-27 04:43:59
don perkins
|66.213.68.xxx
|2008-10-30 15:53:07
ctownraceway
- c-town raceway in columbus ohio now open
|Author
|2008-10-30 16:22:46
would like to let everyone know were racing nov 2nd sunday we have a 1/8 mile drag strip and a trackmate timing system doors open at 9am and we will race at 12pm if you would like info or directions call me at 1-614-506-1970 keep em green!
don perkins
don p
- owner
|66.213.68.xxx
|2008-11-29 14:17:20
we will be also racing tomorrow nov 30th if you need info give me a call thanx!
don p
FrankO
- Nees a Trigger
|12.40.61.xxx
|2008-10-30 16:55:41
Looking for a good Drag Trigger with a roll out. I can not afford a 200 new one, anyone got a good used extra???
mifnightcwby1@comcast.net
I have a pro stock slot car that has a quad mag 20 for power.It is in a WRP inline chassis,with a hardbody 2004 GTO
body running on 13/16by .500 wide tires.
What would be a good starting gear ratio.
We run 1/4 mile and on our track each lane has its own seperate power supply.
Send us your pictures, links to Photobucket, etc. so you can be highlighted on DragSlots.com. Any questions, reply to this post or e-mail admin@dragslots.com
I tried a 4.00 and 3.88 on my quad mag
car and it was slow.
It ran in the 1.150 to 1.300 through the 1/4 mile at only 40 to 45 miles an
hour.
I have an econo S16 proslot powered 136 gram hard body firebird prostock that does the 1/4 mile in low.900s at almost 60 miles an hr.
I don't know what to do about the quad mag hemi wound 20 it should be alot faster.It is a Proslot motor.
I have went from 1 extreme to the other
on the gears and nothing works.
The motor sounds real good on the power
supply.
I would appreciate any helpful advice
given.
I have a 20 with cobalt mags, top gun arm, with a 4.08 gears, and it runs .871 on 1/4 mile track, try glueing it better or less? Check your 60 foot, it should be low.
The arm is a proslot hemi wound 20.I think the 60 foot is about 140.
I tried glueing out about 10ft from start to whole track using koford light drag glue.
What kind of glue do you use,and what kind if tires?
Like I said,I use koford light,tires are natural yellow rubber.I think they
are PRI tires.
Maybe my tires are worn out,because I notice that when I glue the tires the
glue doesn't evenly coat the tires.
Ok I'll try that.
I am also going to have the guy who built the car for me take a look at it,
maybe he can find out what the problem is.
Thanks for the info.
Saturday Janusary 24, 2009 1000.00 to win race. Belleville Michigan. Doors open at 10 race approx starts at 1pm. Expecting over 400 cars!!!!
Tss Hobbir Drags races Tuesday and Thursday and Saturday nights at 7pm.
Tuesday and Thursday 50-75 cars average, Saturday nights 120-150 average. First Sat of every month includes 8.90 9.90 10.90 11.90 heads up classes as well as Hardbody :run what you brung" heads up. Decembers race brought 30 cars to the run what you brung race, 16 cars were in the 6's or lows 7's in the 1/4 mile, the rest were 7's to low 8's. These are Hardbody door slammers, pretty cool race to see.
Iam looking for a reptuable motor rebuilder. I have a Mura Super Wasp, Gp20, and some X-12s that need rebuilt for my Drag Cars.
Email me at: Hrnts69@yahoo.com so we can work something out.
Has anyone tried putting a proslot 16 arm in a quad set-up?If so how did it run?
That quad mag 20 motor I had didn't run right,so I put a new PS16 arm in and it sounds like it will be a good motor for racing.A guy named Doc built it.
He is a well known wing car racer from California who lives in OKC now.
Hello Guys, Just found this Web site. Just reading some post.
OK Slotracer, I run 10 pinon with 60 - 62 crown on 1 3/16 tall tires and my best time on 1/4 mile is .862 at 67 mph. And yes I glue to the tree with Koford reg.
4 annual MUSIC CITY OPEN [/color]hosted by SLOT SPOT Raceway Apirl 17 - 18 - 19 2009
Will post flyer soon.
WillyG1405
- Glue the track!
|65.39.110.xxx
|2009-03-01 01:25:17
I thought all the glue freaks got left behind in road racing!lol! I'm a long time drag racer from Texas and I build rollers and rtr bracket cars under the brand "Pro-Bracket Concepts".I build ,paint,& test my cars before sale.I don't build junk ,but if you want a custom PRO built Gasser/Altered or a "slammer",let me know.My cars usually get glue boarded,and 1 rollthru and launch hard(the only exception are the short fiats /anglia's).I'll be posting pics soon.Thanks...
Bob
- WillyG1405
|68.192.86.xxx
|2009-03-01 02:57:48
Got any links /pics to your stuff? Like to see it.
The 5 pics on my profile page are at the 70% finished stage(chassis done,body painted but not detailed,final trim and finish out to go. I've been using DRS & MiniWheelSport frames ,but have started using WRP parts too.Most of my builds have Lexan bodies,but I'm doing some styrene altereds too.Customer cars are built w/ all new ,best parts available.Any questions can be directed @ my e-mail- vdog585@yahoo.com -Thanks
Ok slotracer
- Harley Dee Memorial& Red River Shootout
|Registered
|2009-03-01 21:06:15
TOP SLOTS RACEWAY in DEL CITY Okla. had their Annual Harley Dee Memorial race combined with another Segment of the Red River Shootout this weekend.
They had over 400+ entries all over Texas and Oklahoma participating.
I just want to give a shout out to all the winners.
Just remember tire size(o.d.)determines your gear ratio.What works with .980's wont work with 1 3/16".Shorter tires work like lower(higher numerically)gears,and taller tires make like taller gears(lower numerically). So,to get your motor to peak just before the finish, tire o.d. is critical to the gearing decision. The ideal is to run as big a pinion as possible(helps smooth out the launch),but chassis /gear clearence is going to effect tire size as well as track/gaer clearence.Confused,welcome to the club!
What I run @kemp or mineola is :1.01x.435 Pro Track Baracuda tires,14 or 15t pinions w/52 or 54t spurs on my X12 arms in single mag cans.My motors are far from fresh,but kemp 1.05 e.t.@65-70 m.p.h(Kemp is low power),At mineola the same set-up runs .870-.910@about the same m.p.h.
Hey BOB ,got my gallery started.Just a couple of cars in the works.The zoomies in front of the Fiat are hand made from copper tube.Also what's not on the Fiat right now is a custom fabbed lexan nosepiece.More to come...
Hex ,OK Racer,and everyone in the area(Tx,Ok,etc.) IronMan Race @ Yellow Jacket raceway in Mineola,Texas!$1800.00 prize money/$700 to win!sent flyer to admin.,should be up soon.E-mail me for more info-vdog585@yahoo.com
I'VE RUN MY OLD(9+YEARS)Parma Edge long enough. What would be a Chassis that is easy to assemble, do not have a Jig ,just a flat surface , plan on using Piano wire and have Dremal tool, and a good iron. Will use a hardbody and a s16d and mainly bracet race.
The WRP(inline ,std.tire or big tire) is a good one (stainless steel)and cheap! Bend a "u" of piano wire (approx..800"inside to inside),cut to length and there you are.DRS bracketmasters or other spring steel chassis are even easier.So,dive right in!
The WRP(inline ,std.tire or big tire) is a good one (stainless steel)and cheap! Bend a "u" of piano wire (approx..800"inside to inside),cut to length and there you are.DRS bracketmasters or other spring steel chassis are even easier.So,dive right in!
Thank you for the input,if the manufacturer of the spring steel cut it right I could stand a better chance of building a straight frame,yet wondering about how heavy.WRP sound simple,but never worked with stainless steel , just brass & wire.
O.K.,a lot of the chassis makers have issues with fit.I use a lot of DRS stuff in my builds ,and his newest lazer-cutter guy hasn't got it quite right yet. I usually file the sides of the slots for the axle uprights,but NOT the ends.Then I taper the sides and the back of the tabs of the uprights ,DO NOT file or grind the front of the tab(it locates the upright).If your interested a DRS roller w/wheels ,axles,guide ,wires and oilites runs $55.00+shipping.Add a lexan body(2-color/lettering extra)$67.50.B.Bearings and custom wheel sets are extra.I'll put a pic. in my gallery soon.WRP inline rollers w/T-altered hard bodies run start @ 75.00.believe me I'm working cheap at those prices.Speed cost $$$,How fast u wantto go? Or just dive right in(whoops already said that!!!!)
That is a great price,BUT I have to watch every cent as my work hours have been cut to 32 and I'm next in line for layoff. Thanks for the great offer. I will save my change and go to the track and see what they have to build,I feel I have to support the local area track , I've seen to many disappear..
I hear you,laid off in Oct.,working temp.ever since.I put the info out as an example,been building chassis,motors,& painting my own for a long time.Don't be skeptical of your own abilities,it's BOTH easier AND harder than it looks!Just do it!!!!
WillyG1405
- Thanks!
|199.46.199.xxx
|2009-03-19 16:36:57
Just a word of thanks to the Admin.,you put our race flyer up front and I hear that the response so far is great!!!Hope to see some of you @ the IronMan!!!!
Used to build frames back in the 60's out of brass and wire , now its stainless steel ,stamped or lazer cut steel. Has any one had any success with brass?
Looks like I will have some time ,so going to try and come up with a frame of brass an wire and see what happens(these materials I have on hand)hard part will be getting allingments,will make a wooden jig setup with nails to set axles
Looks like I will have some time ,so going to try and come up with a frame of brass an wire and see what happens(these materials I have on hand)hard part will be getting allingments,will make a wooden jig setup with nails to set axles
Brass has gone out of favor in drag chassis construction,mostly 'cause of the wieght.Also it's hard to find Hardened brass at the hobby store.Most of K&S brass is "half-hard",bends fairly easy.But with carefull planning and design,it works.
Only a few days away,the buzz down here is really growing!The tune up race last weekend was packed!!!At least one PERFECT run(.500 reaction and dead on on the dial!),several just a tic off!Moe C.(the shop teacher)is going to be fiing up the Grill and the joint will be jumping.I'll forward all the current newsletters to anyone interested.Just send me a line @ vdog585@yahoo.com .
By the way ,If anyone is interested,I'LL HAVE PRO-TRACK TIRES,PAINTED BODIES(LEXAN),pro-stock style wings,Gp 12 arms,and other stuff for sale @ the race.I should be there close to opening,see ya there!@!!
looking for some input, plan on building a D stock for super comp raceing PS-2001 engine , ballbearing on chassis only,hardbody mustang, now sidewinder or inline? tire size must be.960 minimum,fiqured on 3/32 axle and at least 1&1/16,thus gear ratio would be helpfull. will most likely build chassis with piano wire,what will build accurate without a building jig,or would i get by with a Parma Edge since minimum weight is 130 Grams?
WillyG1405
- re:input
|199.46.199.xxx
|2009-04-09 16:32:36
hey ,I've lost your e-mail address.send me a blank and I'll give you some ideas...too many varibles to start here...
Egui Lopez
- Drag Track Inaugural in PR!.
|209.91.224.xxx
|2009-04-10 12:51:26
Next april 25/09 we are openibg my new slot car draagway in PR. Trik Trax, printer, 1000" scale (41. distance, 16 volts, mdf topping all wood track. Primera Hora newspaper and Mech Tech Racing Drag Tv (WAPA AMERICA in USA) program will cover the races with one USA slot drag champ Willo Grajales thats comes from Georgia to be with us, over 50 persons were invited to enjoy pure drag racing at scale. To see more see my web page at: http://community-1.webtv.net/mamitamanada/EguiLope z Slot Car/. Track poster and logo in my page.
Hi guys I have a camaro high downforce body with a koford .459 grp 7 and have protrack .500 tyres & 13pinion & 54t gear & have done .4986 @ 110.5mph was wondering if anyone else has the same motor and is there anything else I could do to get my ET down
WillyG1405
- re:.4986@110.5
|199.46.199.xxx
|2009-04-10 16:24:03
First ,is that bad?for your track,for the local comp.?What kind of short times ("60'"does it run ?Any discernable wheel-spin(what glue and how do you apply it)?And you say it's a "high down-force body,have you tried a different bod.How about the rear wing ,long ,short ,flat or tall? Also what diameter tires(if it's running 1 3/16's ,have you tried a shorter set,like 1 1/16 or 1.01's). Complecated questions,every one of these varibles changes the performance.
I am happy if I have a car close to 49.86 miles per hour to get those numbers I would think you would be quicker drop pinon gear to 12,if my wing car memory serves me, Grp7 like rpms , so droping a tooth or two should make up for lack of lowend torqe.but this is from a fellow that can't get a drag car to break 50mph
for starters it's not 49.86mph its more like 110.5mph @ .4986 of a second.the only reason i am after advise is because in the US alot more people can run mid .4's and here in australia i am only the 4th person to run a .4 so to reach mid 4's or even try to get close to the world record i am seeking info so no one else can get close to me.my 60ft is 0.0675.but thanks WillyG1405 I do have another bod that I'm thinking of trying and I was curious if there was some little extras I could do to the motor apart from the slightest stack true and com true,was wondering if double shunts are worth trying
WillyG1405
- o.k.
|199.46.199.xxx
|2009-04-11 11:47:58
Well the 60'times seem good,did I ask what width tire you're running(.250 or .300" wide you can run a little more glue on the bottom 1/2 than w/.436 or .500"wide).How's the braid look after a pass (any schorching or burnt braid)?if all that is good ,try going both a 12t & a 14tpinion gear to see if the motor wants a different gear.It may be the cars not settled in quite yet.I don't think double shunts will change things(other than making it harder to put the springs on).But springs and brush material will.What springs and brushes are in the motor and has the can(strap)been zapped(remag)anytime lately?You're car sounds like it works pretty fair,but fine tuning sometimes is a puzzle!
I think you must have things setup real good,double shunts may help,also try a lighter or next heavier brush spring tension.at 110 aerodynamics add a lot of drag ,a body with a little less down force as on launch, drag pressure is almost nill till 30MPH is reached.
yeah I'm running .435 wide rubber.you have got me running scared Willy' do you think that .300 wide could handle a open motor? I have two AA/FC but the other run a constant .57's and its fastest speed was 99mph with a 12-54 set up but the other I shortened the wheelie bar length and the whole car weigh's 49.9grms.because of the life expectancy of these motors and cost I think that holds me back from try'ing things.I have try'ed champion light springs oldNolder but I think there was to much brush bounce.I think I will get some .300 wide fish rubber tyres for both cars and a gear ratio 11-50 & 12-50 & I might try some different hights with the tyres.I really want to work out how to get constant .4500 or even break the world record.Ha does anyone know how to get hold of the yellow dot rubber or What the actual rubber was used for.
yeah there used to be alot of melted braid but I have leveled the cars a bit more so there is as little as possible play in the chassis as possible & now I only get a could of light black'ish spots & you could even use them again if wanted but I change the braids after every run & I com true after ten or so runs, I true the comms when it's obvious they need it.
Sounds like you have your,going the right direction , just rember to make one change at a time and write it down with the time diffrence it made.good luck kingeough Ihope you get that record.
After keyboard problems this weekend,I'm getting back on my soapbox.The reason I mentioned braid,is I was running a F-150 in bracket and it was burning the braid on the top end.What does this have to do with KingK's car,you said you were running the "high downforce camero"body.I looked at one this weekend ,and it might(depending on how it was cut and mounted)let the nose come up on the top end,slowing the e.t. !I fixed the big "150"by adding a small chin spoiler.By the way the new truck,DRS ranger/miniwheelsport chassis&gp.20 went .820's @ 59m.p.h.on it's first shakedown runs.And 'older is right ,keep a note book with the set-up and e.t.'s & speeds ,keeping track conditions and any changes made .If the car ever stops going good the road-map back to the starting point is there!Keep us informed on how the quest for the Aussie record is going.
yeah definitely will try to sort out some kind of wind tunnel so i can check the front end.I had a thought about it but didn't really think about it but now that some body has mentioned it i will definitely try and find out what happens to the body @ about 80mph. will be testing some new gearing & and rear wing hight on sat so hoping will get some more useful stats.
yeah definitely will try to sort out some kind of wind tunnel so i can check the front end.I had a thought about it but didn't really think about it but now that some body has mentioned it i will definitely try and find out what happens to the body @ about 80mph. will be testing some new gearing & and rear wing hight on sat so hoping will get some more useful stats.
On a side note I tried to build a wind tunnel for model airplanes , I used a blower out of a furness since it wasn't a fan hoped i would not need flow straightners. then tried to vary volocity be changeing pully size,to get to 80 Mph wind speed will take some serious motor power. mine never worked like I wanted. trying to keep it simple what if a box that would mount outside a car window with some wood blocks epoxed to the floor with vertical slots for the axles to slide in,some kind of spring to hold the car about mid-way in the slots, then take to the road and as speed increases should be able to see if the model pushes the springs down or lifts in the slots front or rear.
WillyG1405
- Re:wind tunnels
|199.46.199.xxx
|2009-04-16 16:21:34
Have been involved with building 2 w/t's.Both used a constant volume blower(a/c style),had flow straighteners.Difference came in velocity control,one used a bleed off (wastegate style)ahead of the test area.The other was non-adjustable(had to do the math for any other speed.).The varible speed one used a triple-beam scale ,and only showed load.The constant flow one was set-up to only look at air flow over the subject and took 5-6 camels a run to generate the smoke!
at my work i'm a bit of a favourite and can use anything i want & we have a lab & the boys in there love showing each outher up so i might be able to come up with something good.on the other hand work is flat out atm & wont be able to start building for quite some time.
Started my new D\SM comp.eliminator car, got a WRP-09 inline chassis ,stainless steel for the framing ,ball bearings ,ect. spent most of last evening useing micrometers,and squares ,heated up the Weller 40Watt with large tip ,after sanding the areas ,cleaning with alchohol,applying Kesler flux,could only get solder to stick at a couple of spots,sanded ,cleaned ,re-fluxed,still poor joints , so took it apart,never had any problem with piano wire. Any special flux needed? A torch? higher watt Iron, may by some wire would be easier.
Started my new D\SM comp.eliminator car, got a WRP-09 inline chassis ,stainless steel for the framing ,ball bearings ,ect. spent most of last evening useing micrometers,and squares ,heated up the Weller 40Watt with large tip ,after sanding the areas ,cleaning with alchohol,applying Kesler flux,could only get solder to stick at a couple of spots,sanded ,cleaned ,re-fluxed,still poor joints , so took it apart,never had any problem with piano wire. Any special flux needed? A torch? higher watt Iron, may by some wire would be easier.
WillyG1405
- Good start...
|65.39.110.xxx
|2009-04-18 01:10:42
Stay-Brite or a good brand silver solder and ACID FLUX! S.Steel needs a cleaning and etching .Your 40 watt is at the bottom end heat wise,but should be o.k.,a hakko iron would be better ,a torch is overkill ,but don't use too much heat(propane/butane burn at 1800 or so degress,so taking the temper out of the parts is possible).Torches take a "flicking"technique, moving the flame cone back and forth.Wire would be easier but you still have the s.s. bracket.If you got the brass bracket ,it needs a couple of re-inforcing "hoops".
Thanks , I am writing a list,first a acid flux,looking at a 100Watt Iron,and silver solder. may take awhile as cash is tight, but I know were to start. will post some pictures in my callery when i get assembled.
Building a WRP-06 chassis for SCCEA class C\SM build best I could without a Jig just squares and micrometers,took an hour to get the motor bracket squared. then I am useing silicone tubing to isolate the body mounts for vibration.
Chassie finished will get front wheels,this payday,also shunt wires,and new body interior.wish I could paint,well pretty is as pretty does...I hope it does'nt turn uglier! picture in gallery.
Not yet,ran into some medical problems,that has kept me from getting to T.S.S just need interior and front wheels,finnished all the test and ended up being a strange bacterial infection of the intestinal tract causeing bleeding .can't wait to test run
WillyG1405
|65.39.110.xxx
|2009-05-21 01:41:41
You sure you ain't been kissing any pigs now,that's how them folks got swine flu!!!lol!!!
Heard that , but has to get through comggres and to many of those guys own shares of medical groups and pharmacys. pictures are posted on gallery under a day at T.S.S.(my pics sight)I think in Canada or England there taxed income ,over 50%of it for there Gov. health care.
Went to T.S.S. Thursday night and entered the C\SM in the bracket race for its shake down runs , I was very dissapointed as it was not even close to running the time needed for that class. first will clean the Glue out of it. then the gear ratio a 12/46 with 1 3/16 tires would bog out of the hole and never peaked the entire run, bought a 50 and 52 to drop in.
mac1956
- 1/8 mile gear ratio help
|68.82.111.xxx
|2009-05-26 22:08:07
need some help with a gear ratio for an 1/8 mile drag track. parma edge s16d,1.01 tires,everything is basically stock except for bearings instead of bushings,came with a 9/33 gear combo and help would be greatly appreciated so i do not have to buy a lot of pinions ans crown gears.thanks for your help[
Willy G1405
- re; gears
|65.39.110.xxx
|2009-05-26 23:04:39
Get rid of the parma gears and go with 64 pitch sonics.10t pinion & a 48,50 or 52t crown(50t probably)gives around 5 to 1 ,which seems to work in the 1/8th.Be sure to get/or make a .010" shim with a slot for the axle .
Willy G1405 ,is right go to sonic cears, if that is not an optionget the biggest crown parma sells 36th I think,and a 8 tooth pinion, make a V shaped brace from the axle uprights to the motor mount plate and a straight one across bettwen the uprights this stops a lot of bind when it launches,makes it a lot more consistant.
oldNolder
|71.238.192.xxx
|2009-06-15 01:06:50
one more thing take off the PARMA tires and get some PRO TRACKS or other leading brand rubber , and watch it settle down,I didn't know but my edge was spinning at half track, a guy gave me a set of PRO TRACK and the times went from 11.48=50 to 11.25 and was no more variation than 22-25
Hey everybody, we have been working hard and we are about to launch a new website! Go ahead, set up your profile and check it out. We are telling members first... we haven't even announced it yet!
Although a rookie I've enjoyed drag racing since high school, well , many years ago.
I've also been slot car racin since it's heyday 1962.
I've recently been introduced to 1/24th scale drag racing and although just beginning like it very much. It's now evident I need to re-structure my slotcar activities to allow more time for the drag racing.
first off i would like to thank everyone who supported us last year! this year will be even greater. our first race will be on oct 24th and that will be our halloween shootout. we are in columbus ohio and anyone that wants info on hours location and classes we run feel free to ask my number is 1-614-506-1970 thanks and keep em green!
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|112.111.190.xxx
|2010-12-06 06:40:07
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|123.53.125.xxx
|2010-12-21 05:26:19
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|123.53.125.xxx
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